When it comes to console USB controllers, I think it's best to just get a USB adapter and an original controller instead of an all-in-one that tries to replicate the original. I have one of these and it works fine. Just make sure that when you get the game pad, that it's an original SNES controller and not a knock-off.
Nintendo is apparently allergic to money. After creating an instant and profitable hit with the NES Classic, the company decided to end production of the cheap little emulation machine just a few months after its introduction. No matter: tech savvy Nintendo fans who couldn’t get a hold of one (or didn’t want to line the pockets of scalpers) have other options.
RELATED:How to Build Your Own NES or SNES Classic with a Raspberry Pi and RetroPie
But one thing that’s not so easy to replicate is the feel of an authentic Nintendo controller. That’s where third party manufacturers come in, eagerly sating our need for classic console controls in both wired USB and wireless forms. Here are the best options for those who prefer to roll their own nostalgia.
Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) Controllers
The original Nintendo Entertainment System (or Famicom, if you’re a stickler for the Japanese version) doesn’t have the most ergonomic controller design, but the little rectangle has a lasting appeal all its own. Unfortunately, the NES gamepad is so simple that the market seems to be flooded with cheap, low-quality replicas, most of which have poor production and serious control issues. If you want the most nostalgic, square, corners-jutting-into-your-palms NES controller, this is the best one we’ve used.
However, my favorite wired option is this Retro-Link USB model. And before you cry foul on the Super NES-style bone shape, here’s a bit of video game history for you: years into its original production, Nintendo released a redesigned controller affectionately known as the “dog bone.” This updated two-button layout seems to have informed the design for the next console. Another well-regarded alternative is the iBuffalo USB 8-Button Game Pad. This model cheats a bit with “extra” control buttons, but it keeps the Japanese Famicom shape and color scheme with a more dependable build than the more “retro” USB options.
For wireless fans, the relatively new 8BitDo (get it?) NES30 controller is one of the best Bluetooth pads around. Two extra face buttons plus squared-off shoulder buttons mean that technically this is a Super NES configuration, but the aesthetics are more or less perfect, and a few more control options never hurt anyone.
Atari 2600 Controllers
The original joystick-plus-button combo is hard to beat for classic games like Pac-Man and Galaga. Unfortunately, it looks like that simplicity has made the classic Atari controller design prone to the same quality control issues as the two-button NES pad. USB reproductions all seem to be plagued with shoddy builds and substandard plastics. I’d recommend either tossing authenticity out the window and using another controller on this list, or hunting for an original controller and an adapter (which we’ll talk about in a bit).
Super Nintendo (SNES) Controllers
For SNES-style controls on a PC, the iBuffalo Classic USB Gamepad is the gold standard. They’ve been selling this design forever, and why not—it perfectly emulates the much-loved shape and button placement of the curvy Super NES controller. The design also includes a turbo button, for when you’d like to cheat at Street Fighter.
For a wireless model, once again 8BitDo seems to be at the forefront of Bluetooth-flavored nostalgia. The SNES30 is essentially the same thing as the NES30 in a more period-accurate plastic case, with options available in both the Super Famicom color scheme and the purple-tinted American SNES model. Even the manufacturer logo is printed to match Nintendo’s original—a nice touch.
SEGA Genesis Controllers
The perennial also-ran still has its fans, and there’s an option for the Genesis faithful. The alternate six button controller was the favorite of fighting game aficionados, and Hyperkin’s USB replica is the best option around. Unfortunately the Genesis hasn’t had the same lasting influence as Nintendo’s early consoles, and there doesn’t seem to be a quality option for the original three button design or a wireless alternative.
PlayStation Controllers
The PlayStation DualShock controller design was a paradigm shift for video games that’s still more or less intact in today’s controller designs. Oddly, there doesn’t seem to be a high-quality replica of the original version in USB flavor (and there’s no trace of the very first model, sans thumbsticks). The older Logitech F310 design emulates the button layout with quality components, and it comes in wireless with the F710 upgrade. But if you want a more first-party feel, you might as well just buy the Bluetooth-equipped PS3 controller and install some third-party driver software. It works with the Raspberry Pi, too.
Nintendo 64 Controllers
The N64’s odd tri-handled controller isn’t exactly well-regarded except by Mario 64 players, but Nintendo’s nostalgia power is strong, and there are replicas out there. The Retro-Link USB replica model does an admiral job of recreating the N64’s basic design, and again 8BitDo has released a Bluetooth version. But there’s a big fat catch: no replica controller has truly recreated the same feel of the original controller’s analog stick. Even original controllers with replacement sticks are not the same—your only hope for a truly authentic, quality experience is to find an original controller with its original stick, that isn’t worn to hell, and use an adapter. Sadly, those are rather hard to come by.
If you’re willing to give up authenticity, you might find that you have a better experience—joystick technology has come a long way since the N64, and modern controllers feel much smoother on your thumbs. Enterprising users can try installing this GameCube-style stick designed for the N64 controller.
If you aren’t comfortable with that, you’ll need to look at other options. You’ll miss out on the same button layout (few controllers have the six-button layout on the right side), but we’ve found that original Xbox controllers with USB adapters and the XBCD drivers work well with Nintendo 64 emulators. An Xbox 360 or One controller will work in a pinch, but the original Xbox controller is best, since its triggers are buttons, not axes, which tends to work better with some games.
Dreamcast, GameCube, PS2, and Later Consoles
By the time the SEGA Dreamcast rolled around (and then rolled over), the modern thumbstick/face button/trigger button layout was more or less cemented into gamer culture. If you’re emulating any of the 2000-era or later consoles, you’ll probably do just fine with something like the Xbox 360 or Xbox One controller, both of which have first-party USB adapters for easy use on a PC. The older 360 wired controller works fine in Windows and on a Raspberry Pi, and the latest Xbox One controller revision also comes with Bluetooth.
If you’re a stickler for authenticity, you can also use the aforementioned PS3 DualShock 3 controller with Bluetooth, and the Bluetooth connection on both the Wii Remote and the Wii U Pro controller mean they can be used with a PC or Raspberry Pi with only limited setup needed. The more modern PS4 controller, with its built-in trackpad doubling as a handy mouse, can be used with an official adapter or as a generic Bluetooth control pad.
Alternatively: Use Adapters for the Original Controllers
If you insist on absolute accuracy for your retro and emulated games, only the real McCoy will do. None of the original controllers for classic consoles have a USB connection (since many of them predate the Universal Serial Bus standard), but enterprising vendors offer USB adapters for basically every popular console ever made. Here’s one for your GameCube Wavebirds, plus original PlayStation and that giant first-gen Xbox controller (AKA “The Duke”). Here’s another for that tricky Atari controller. Do a quick search for almost any classic console plus “USB adapter” and you’ll probably find an inexpensive solution.
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Whether you’re playing retro games through an emulator on Windows, Mac, or a custom-built Raspberry Pi console, you need a controller. We tested some of the most popular options, from simple Xbox controllers to retro replicas and expensive Bluetooth-enabled gamepads, to figure out which are worth your money.
The Contenders
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There’s no replacing the feel of an original controller on an original game console, but if you’re building your own retro gaming rig, you still need something better than a keyboard to play those old games. After searching through forums, blog posts, and Amazon reviews, I narrowed down my search to a mixture of controller types, from new and modern to old school replicas. Here’s what I tested:
Hundreds of other generic options are available, most serving as replicas for SNES, NES, or Genesis, but the reviews are so poor for the bulk of them that I decided to skip them. Most complaints about cheaper controllers come down to build quality and button actuation, both of which I’ve also found problematic on the generic controllers I’ve used over the years. You get what you pay for, and most sub-$10 options aren’t worth your money. I also decided to skip NES-replicas since the two button layout limits what you can play.
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How We Tested
For testing, I played a bunch of different games for several hours using each controller. I spent the bulk of those hours for 2D games with Ninja Gaiden III and Super Street Fighter II. I chose Ninja Gaiden because it requires fast response time from the buttons and the directional pad, while Super Street Fighter II is one of the rare games that uses all six buttons on a controller and requires dexterity with the d-pad. As for 3D games, I spend the most time with Super Mario 64for Nintendo 64, Crazy Taxifor Dreamcast, and Quake II on PlayStation 1.
For software, I tested all the controllers with RetroArch on Windows, OpenEmu on Mac, and RetroPie on the Raspberry Pi. Every controller I tested worked with every operating system I tested it on, though I had some setup quirks with some of the Bluetooth controllers.
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In the end, after considerable testing, I decided there was no such thing as the perfect do-all controller, so I’ve split my picks into two categories: a controller for just 2D gaming, and an all-purpose controller for both 2D and 3D games.
Our Pick for 2D Games: Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad
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If you’re just looking to play 2D games from console generations like the NES, SNES, Genesis, or Turbografx-16, I found that less is more, and the smaller controllers built for retro games felt much better than modern dual-analog options.
Through all my tests, there was one controller that not only felt the best for me, but also comes recommended from a variety of sources: the Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad. The Buffalo Classic controller has stellar reviews on Amazon and comes recommended from both How-To Geek and Shovel Knight developer Yacht Club Games. It also often tops out lists from the likes of NeoGAF, Reddit, and Racketboy.
$19
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The Buffalo Classic is a near exact size replica of the original SNES controller, though it opts for the Super Famicom style face button design. The buttons have been resilient and continue to work just as they did when I first opened the box. The feedback is also just as good as the original SNES controller, which means the d-pad has a pleasing “click” with each movement and the buttons bounce back immediately after pressing them. Since it’s USB, it’s easy to set up. Just plug it in and you’re ready to go.
That’s a huge step up from the Tomee SNES controller we’ve recommended in the past. The Tomee controller feels poorly made and after a couple hours of use the buttons started to squeak and feel mushy. The d-pad feels like it’s held onto the controller with bubblegum and only responds when you press with a lot of force.
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Of course, the Super Nintendo inspired design isn’t your only option. I also tested the Hyperkin Genesis controller. This was the only Genesis-inspired controller I could find with decent reviews. The six face buttons feel good, but the d-pad is stiffer than the original Genesis controller. It also doesn’t have the nice rolling action that set the Genesis controller apart from the SNES and made it perfect for games like Street Fighter II. If you’re only playing Genesis games, the Hyperkin controller does the job, but I found the SNES style works a little better for general use, especially when you consider how few Genesis games actually used all six face buttons.
If you want or need to go wireless, then the 8BitDo line of Bluetooth gamepads are well constructed, albeit luxury options. While the SNES30 Pro was the gamepad I tested the most here, I also got my hands on a couple other 8BitDo models, including the NES30 ($35) and SNES30 ($35), and they’re all similarly built. Despite their appearance, the controllers aren’t exactly replicas of the original Nintendo controllers. The buttons and d-pad are much more clicky than the originals and they all feel more like a modern controller. 8BitDo’s entire line of controllers are customizable, include firmware updates, and even support key remapping. It’s overkill for the majority of us, but if a ton of advanced options is what you want, then 8BitDo’s extensive line of controllers will suit your needs. From my experience the quality of controller extends to all their options.
However, the SNES30 Pro and NES30 are both tiny, measuring at about the same size as an original NES controller (which is not as big as you remember it being). If you have large hands, these are uncomfortable to hold. The Bluetooth also adds quite a bit to the cost, especially with the SNES30 Pro. If you don’t need wireless, this is totally overkill, but 8BitDo makes a quality, stylish controller provided you have smaller hands and you don’t mind paying extra.
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I also gave the Nintendo 64 inspired Retrolink controller a shot for regular old NES, SNES, and Genesis games, and it’s truly awful. The controller itself is well made, but the bizarre button layout of the Nintendo 64 means it’s next to impossible to use this controller for anything but Nintendo 64 games. That includes the awkwardly placed and weirdly sized analog joystick, which bounces back into place with a satisfying, but odd, rubber band effect, just like on the original controller. The same can’t be said about the d-pad, which feels mushy at best. The slow response time on the d-pad makes it hard to get through a single level in a game like Ninja Gaiden.
I’ll get into this much more in the section below, but after hours of testing, I found modern controllers, like the Logitech F310, Xbox One, and DualShock, far too cumbersome to use for 2D gaming exclusively. That’s not to say they don’t work, but they’re heavy and the additional analog inputs are unnecessary if you don’t plan on playing anything beyond the SNES generation. For that, the $20 Buffalo Classic USB gamepad is all you need.
Our Pick for 2D and 3D Games: Sony DualShock 4 Wireless Controller
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If you’re looking for a catch-all controller to work with both 2D and 3D games, the Sony DualShock 4 is what you want. The directional pad is well suited for 2D games, while the analog sticks are perfect to 3D games as well. It’s far too bulky and expensive to recommend for just 2D games, but if you’re looking to play everything from the NES to the PlayStation One, the DualShock has you covered.
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The DualShock 4 wins for me for a variety of reasons, but the main one is the d-pad. The buttons are responsive and the spongy click of each individual pad feels more like a classic controller than the other options I tested. The face button placement, size, and style also feels natural when you’re playing older games. If you already have a DualShock 4, you’ll likely be happy with it for retro games. It’s also a favorite among the likes of The Wirecutter and PC Gamer. You will need some additional software to pair the DualShock 4 with a PC, though it’s not terribly hard to use. On the flipside, it pairs with RetroPie on the Raspberry Pi and with OpenEmu on the Mac out of the box. If you’d prefer a cheaper option, the PS3’s DualShock 3 is just as good as the DualShock 4, but sadly doesn’t just work out of the box and requires, extra set up compared to the DualShock 4.
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The squishier d-pad of the PS4 controller is in direct contrast to the XBox One controller’s clicky d-pad, which felt horrible for most retro games. Where the DualShock’s d-pad softens its click like a classic NES controller would, the Xbox One feels and sounds more like you’re pressing a key on a keyboard. While the d-pad style is a matter of preference, if you’re looking for the same feel as older controllers, the Xbox One doesn’t fit the bill. Aside from that, the d-pad placement in the center of the controller is also awkward and doesn’t work well for long bouts of play. The same goes for the cheaper Xbox 360 Controller, though the d-pad on that controller is basically unusable for most retro games because it’s so unresponsive.
The aforementioned SNES30 Pro also fits into this section just as much as the previous, but falls short with 3D games. It’s too small for most people to use for any game that requires dual-analog sticks because they’re tiny and jammed too close together. Likewise, the four buttons on the top of the controller are horribly placed, so it’s difficult to use them. Even despite all that, if you’re looking for a gamepad primarily for 2D games that can also handle the occasional 3D game, then the SNES30 Pro is fine, just don’t expect it to be comfortable for long.
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If you only plan on playing Nintendo 64 games, the RetroLink controller does an admirable job of replicating the feel of the weird Nintendo 64 controller, though the single analog stick makes it completely useless for games on any other console. It’s impossible to recommend this controller for anything but Nintendo 64 games.
If you’re looking for a cheap option, the Logitech F310 (and its wireless counterpart, the F710) are big sellers, but even at the $20 price point of the F310, it’s hard to recommend. The analog thumbsticks feel tight, the face buttons are a little too big, and the input drop is too deep. This means it requires a little too much force to press a button in, which causes problems with any game that requires precise timing. The controller itself is also oddly shaped, feeling something like a mashup of both the Xbox controller and the DualShock. Most reviewers, including Polygon and The Wirecutter have pointed out the F310 feels weird to hold and I’m inclined to agree. The d-pad on the F310 has a satisfying clickiness about it, but that doesn’t translate to responsiveness on the game’s end.
A game controller is a personal thing, and which best suits you depends a lot on the size of your hands and what you’ve used in the past. If you’re happy with what you have right now, there’s no reason to change anything up, but if not, there’s an option out there that’ll suit your needs.
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Illustration by Sam Woolley.
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